Day 1 for the ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2015 season led me to the Christine Phung show at the Institut du Monde Arabe which is wonderfully surrounded by panes of glass flooding the catwalk with fantastic natural light. Light that is perfect to magnify the genious of this up-and-coming Paris-based designer.
Phung, who grew up in France with a Cambodian father and a French mother, worked for Christophe Lemaire, Chloe, Vanessa Bruno, Lacoste and Baby Dior. Every designer has a signature aesthetic and ethos, and Phung's is her power in the printed fabric which was on pure display for her FW2015-16 collection. Modern and seductive, the collection offers amazing form and fit. Stunning watercolour-like prints awash in vivid violet, pink and teal hues turned up on pant suits, billowy blouses, blazers, skirts, shorts and dresses. Similar tones appeared in floral prints on dresses and skirts. Phung has a distinct love for the A-line silhouette, both youthful and sensual. The dresses, in particular, draped beautifully off the shoulders of each model but retained their billowy, modern-boho sensibility - a highlight came in the form of a brilliant turquoise number that made us forget the collection was for Fall.
The fabric printed looks were so stunning that it was easy to forget the rest of the collection that so clearly evoked fall and winter coziness. Structured jackets, belted sleeveless dresses printed with lines to mimic pleats emphasized the importance of the micro-pleat in nearly all the Fall-Winter collections shown this year. Textured knit dresses with button-down fronts also emphasized wearability and will become closet staples.