While the tragic events of early January in Paris are behind us (relatively speaking), there's nothing that is more forward looking and optimistic than Fashion Week. Paris put on a spectacular show this past week for the Men's Collections for Fall-Winter 2015/16 - as usual - not letting anything get in its way. Life must move on and so should fashion. Bravo. Here's a quick recap of notable collections for the first round.
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, Creative Directors at Valentino, collaborated with Australian artist Esther Stewart and leveraged her geometric motifs in this Fall and Winter's collection for the famed fashion house. Patchwork color blocking applied to both leather and cashmere outerwear was a nod to patterns which predominantly graced the runway this past week. The same color blocking was found on knapsacks and other travel accessories. Plaid, check, dizzying stripes and dots were prevalent and proud.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
This collection could probably be labeled 'For the Active Sporty Gentleman', with heavy emphasis on straps, belts, knots used generously throughout. Knots were so prevalent it was even printed on jackets. The whole feeling of kinetic energy though, was refreshing - as if one was caught mid-day in the action! Other pieces of note were nylon bomber jackets with knotted detail; a wool para-strap sleeveless coat vest; and a knotted zip up jacket.
Louis Vuitton also decided to jump on the 'rope-a-dope' bandwagon. This somewhat popular motif landed on its sweaters, double-breasted coats, toggle coats and even trousers. For Fall-Winter, the grand French design house opted for ash, brass, light charcoals and navy as the hues of choice. Those muted selections paired well with the ubiquitous accessories strewn over handsome shoulders and chest, shown in somewhat smaller sizes than in past collections.
Dries Van Noten
While Vuitton and Lim were tied to the fantasy of rope, Dries Van Noten's Fall-Winter 2015-16 collection was much more tribal in nature in its design motifs and printed patterns over checked shirts, sweaters and light jackets. These are layered with knee-length culottes, quilted application and color blocking on double-breasted cashmere coats. Bespoke toggle hardware on the collection's outwear pieces, along with luxe trims like fur collars and satin pants, round out the collection.